The Écrivélo Files

Journeys Through War-Torn Europe by Bike.

Woodhall Spa to Lincoln Cathedral

During the war the imposing Lincoln Cathedral and the River Witham served as geographical navigational aids for returning bombers. In many instances Lincoln Cathedral was the last recognisable building that the crews would see as they left on their missions in mainland Europe.

 The route I took started at my hotel The Petwood, most famous as the Officers Mess for 617 Squadron, the Dambusters run by Squadron Leader Guy Gibson. However, in the later part of the war it was also used by the officers of 627 Squadron who were attached to 5 group. The hotel was returned to being a Hotel after the war and today is a hotel that clings onto its past and heritage along side modern facilities and does so very well.

As you go into the centre of the town there is a large memorial to 617 Squadron and also one specifically for those who perished in the Dambusters Raid on 16–17 May 1943.

I then took the Water Rail Way, part of Sustrans route N°1. This off road paved route runs all the way into Lincoln and provided the wind is with you is an easy flat route. Punctuated by beautiful sculptures it weaves it way from one old station to the next, between the River Witham and a large drainage cut across a very flat open landscape. Despite my ride being on a cloudy and overcast day I was over 10 km from Lincoln when I first saw the towers of the cathedral in the distance.

As if to remind me that this was still Bomber County, over head, invisible to me because of the cloud i could here frequent Tornados from RAF Conningsby.

Only just managing to cycle 2/3rds of the way up to the Cathedral –  the incline cobbled and oblivious pedestrians all  made further progress impossible up the aptly named Steep Hill –  I arrived at Lincoln Cathedral.

Lincoln is also one of the few places where you can see an original copy of Magna Carta. The Magna Carta is the first charter to limit the power of the monarchy and to uphold the rights of the individual going on to form the foundations of British democracy as we know it today.

Finally I went off to the International Bomber Command Centre – a magnificent project designed to help us remember, educate and reconcile after WWII.

The spire will include the names of all those aircrew who are listed in the three rolls of honour held in Lincoln Cathedral. The location of the memorial is most appropriate as the spire will be in direct line of sight of the cathedral which proved to be such a guiding landmark for the returning crews during the Second World War.

During the war a light shone from the cathedral partly as a beacon guiding the crews back and partly as a warning against the height of the towers.